in the icefall, where there's a danger of falling into crevasses. If you climb some hills after Khorog, you may be able too see the extremely spectacular peaks in the Shakhdarinskiy Range. google_ad_format = "336x280_as"; A harness, karabiners, slings for roping up etc. Icebat.eu adds (April 2015):"It is now possible to fly directly to Osh. Their fares are mostly very interesting. ""Why must you people be so serious about all this? You are allowed to camp anywhere in the area.Base Camp SafetyMany stories about thefts in the BCs are in circulation. All Rights Reserved. Schtraff - translation: Pocket money, fine, bribe, gift, penalty, give me your money, give me your gear etc.As long as you know you have all documents in order, stand your ground and be adamant but polite. http://www.centralasia-travel.com/en/expeditions/lenin. Roughly 330km. google_color_text = "000000"; Final­ly there is a rocky sec­tion that leads to the sum­mit. They are all located in Central Asia. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; The local advice you use for the daily plan.A very experienced Tajik climber I met, told me the old sailor's rule could be applied very well in the Pik Lenin area. This is by far the best source of information as the local weather forecast station is located a bit too far off to take local weather of the peak into account. I have now changed the information on the page. Do not bring, short technical axes, you'll have no use for them. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Following this link you can get more useful information about Lenin Peak Ascent: Do they continue to track these ascents since the collapse of the Soviet Union? Via Toktogul.National Highway 41 takes you first over the Töö-Ashuu Pass (3586m) to Toktogul which is roughly 300km from Bishkek. Many climbers also come back with fond memories of having "camped with nomads" and great horse-back rides on the grasslands. An extensive article on Explorersweb, by Ian McLagan. Ascend NW Ridge of Pik Lenin. For many Russian alpinists the completion of the snow leopard peaks is an important goal.The five Snow Leopard mountains are: * You can even do without crampons or axe, or even both. The peak has seen a lot of things going on over the years. Done first time by the North Face (Jacob Arkin "Metla" Route 5A) on the 31'st of January 1988. It's enough for the sections you'll need a rope, i.e. There are only a few places where you can have some problems if you lack enough experience. Most companies charge 2 Euros/night for a night in their spacious two men tents.Most companies offer satellite phone calls, but they tend to be quite expensive.Gear storage is available for free for expedition members and for a small fee for those climbing alone. If you have any valuables you want to leave while higher on the peak, ask the camp boss to take care of it.Unfortunately there are some shady individuals lurking around looking for "free stuff".Palic added:I do not know situation this year, but I had similar experiences in 1999-2001, when we had visited this area. It's located next door to the Chinibagh Hotel. Detailed map of Lenin Peak area and scheme of arrival in Base Camp of Lenin Peak. I like this bit: 7134m Pik Lenin is well known for predominantly two reasons; as one of the “easiest” 7000m climbs in the world, and as the site of the worst mountaineering accident, by fatality count, to ever occur. Index | Worldwide Some climbers do and make it to the summit, but then you're really playing high.Nice to have, Do you know if a list of 'snow leopards' is maintained somewhere on the web? Green rolling pastures with the yurts of the nomadic Kyrgyz sprinkled through the lush valley. Exposed stretches on ridges, avalanche danger, some easy glacier travel and most important, the high altitude and the weather are the main concerns on Pik Lenin.The mountain is one of the five summits included in the Snow Leopard Trophy.The name of the mountainPik Lenin has like many of the other Soviet era peaks officially been renamed. I will add this info to the page. 18A, Zaynabetdinova str. google_color_bg = "FFFFFF"; //-->, , Pik Lenin 7134m ( formerly Mount 2. If you want to go straight to Pik Lenin and get the permits in Osh, make sure the travel agent knows about this before departure. Here's a Warning I found on a page about Pik Lenin. It is the second Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. The Route Up Peak Lenin Climbing Peak Lenin is usually a 3-week endeavour involving multiple acclimatisation hikes and rest days before the final push for the summit to ensure your body is accustomed to the ever-rising altitude, somewhat used to the frigid cold and your mind is prepared for the gruelling ascent to the summit. Most flight search engines do not detect this connection. (Days 3-6): A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. It is Tashkent in Uzbekistan and Dushanbe in Tajikistan also have airports with international connections. Every year climbers from both ends of the extremes come to Pik Lenin - complete novices who have never set foot on a mountain before and the extreme elite like Shamalo, who described the climb as "stealing candy from a baby".The official grade is 5A Russian grade. the highest until. It doesn't have to be long or thick. google_ad_height = 90; Walking sticks. The fact that Tajikistan had one of history's most brutal civil wars some years back and still has a very bad reputation of being a dangerous place is another factor.Additional reasons for the peak's popularity is the hospitable surroundings. Here they camped twice at 6,031m. E-mail: Moscow@centralasia-travel.com Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Turkish Airlines offer flights from their Istambul hub. So it is "cheaper" to fall north, especially if you want your relatives to remember you with kind words. This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. Pik Lenin, West-East Traverse Kyrgyzstan, Pamir In July, Markus Gschwendt (Austria) and Anton Sharobayko (Russia) made a lengthy and unusual traverse of Pik Lenin (7,134m). 24/7 Day 12: Rest day C3, sunny and clear. The Pamir Highway was long considered the most dangerous road in the world, but lately the situation has improved and there should be no danger travelling it nowadays. Normal Route, Lenin Peak (7 134 m / 23 406 ft) overview, tours, guide list, itinerary, gear list, photo gallery, climbers, climbing costs and trip reports Getting There - From China There are two options:From Kashgar/Kashi via Torugurt Pass or Irkestam Pass.Torugurt Pass. Mountain (climbing) weather forecasts for 5 elevations of Pik Lenin, Pamir, Central Asia Ranges, Tajikistan. I agree that majority of thefts are made by local youngsters, but no all as adults had to take part in too. Permit" in Dushanbe. thought to be Peak Lenin can be a tough and physically demanding mountain but we have achieved summit success on four previous expeditions due to our unique itinerary that includes a camp 4 at 6400m to shorten the summit day by at least 2-3 hours to less than eight hours compared to other operators (avoiding the normal 10-13 hr. A tragic accident where almost 50 persons lost their lives, a world record try in high altitude mountain bike riding, to mention some. The route trav­els up snow and rock even­tu­al­ly reach­ing a plateau at 20,997 feet / 6,400 meters. 9, Solovyinaya Roscha str. google_ad_type = "text_image"; Easier access and easier routes are the main practical reasons why a vast majority choose the Kyrgyz side. google_ad_channel =""; Transfer hotel is paid by Pulkovo.Some years back Aeroflot was the given alternative, but nowadays their prices are not as good as for example Pulkovo. Pik Karla Marksa and Pik Engels are the most prominent. Camps/snow caves on 5500, 6000 and 6500. I met one climber who had been charged $100 for the 20 min ride.The different expedition organizers have their own camps in the area. Summiteers: V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. is located on Melt off from the glaciers and snow fields also makes access hard.In the main climbing season the weather is usually quite stable and until you reach 5000m it can be really hot.In the end of August storms appear with higher frequency, it fast gets colder and the first autumn snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and makes progress on the peak harder.During the normal climbing season there are always guides, tour operators and expert climbers who knows the area's weather patterns very well. The route is 400km easy ride to Osh. Road conditions can in places be pretty rough and two switch-back passes have to be negotiated. Starting from the standard Camp 1 at 4,400m on the normal route up the north side of Lenin, the pair climbed the east face of Pik Yukhin (5,112m), as many do for http://www.asiamountains.net/en. 550km out of Dushanbe you arrive in Khorog, the only city of any size before Murghab which is another 320km away. If you climb all of them, you get the title Snow Leopard, which is considered an indicator you're a top rank climber. The base camp of Pik Lenin is heaven. Irkestam Pass.This pass was closed until year 2000, but now it's completely hassle-free.If shooting for the Irkestam option, be sure you have bought everything you need before leaving Kashgar as you will not pass any settlements of size before arriving in Pik Lenin BC.Transport to BCAny of the below mentioned organizers can arrange the transport.From Osh to BC it's about $25 and so is the pick-up service cost from Irkestam Pass/China border. : (+99871) 20002 99 He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. Pik Lenin is included in the Getting There - From Tajikistan via Garm and Alau Valleys/A372A much more direct route from Dushanbe to Pik Lenin is to travel via Dzhirgatal. google_ad_format = "728x90_as"; Thanks in advance. Asian Explorations is also run by the same people.Usually, you pay for a trip all the way to Bishkek and with an overnight stay in Naryn. 341 likes. The Chinese peak has even easier access, is higher and also considered less dangerous than Pik Lenin. Thanks. A final slope of increasing steepness, to around 40-45 degrees, leads to Camp 3 at 6100m-6150m on the summit of Pik Razdelnaya. Usually you have to overnight in St. Petersburg. A rope. All the different approach routes to the mountain shown. (2), Images They established their "true home", Camp 1 at 4200m one day later, before pushing up to Camp 2 at 5200m on 23 July and Camp 3 at 6100m at Pik Razdelnaya. In total, 43 climbers out of a 45 die. On 13 July 1990, 45 mountaineers were stationed at Camp II on the Razdelnaya route at 5,300m on Lenin Peak preparing themselves for their next ascent to Camp III. Entering KyrgyzstanTo enter Kyrgyzstan you need a visa. Thanks Dmiki. The route out of Camp 2 follows a ~35-40 degree slope before traversing across gentle terrain to the base of Pik Razdelnaya. the permit fee is still $100/peak and some new and ever-chaging rules about the need for a nature conservation fee applies. Turkish Airlines offer flights from their Istambul hub. Pik Lenin 2013. It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. The fee is a few US Dollars a day.In Tajikistan, try to get hold of Mr. Wladimir Razykov, who can be contacted in any of the top end hotels in Dushanbe. Pik Lenin and the Trans-Alay range of Kyrgyzstan offer huge kaleidoscope landscapes with many ski touring opportunities - an expedition on the 7,000m Peak Pik Lenina er en fjelltopp i Sentral-Asia, som ligger i Trans-Alaj, på grensen mellom Kirgisistan og Tadsjikistan, og måler 7134 meter over havet. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. In our groups, exposed films, chocolate, caps, etc. Der Pik Lenin in Kirgistan im Tian Shan Gebirge gehört zu den nördlichsten 7000ern der Welt. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Kaufmann ). They can help out with everything from support letters/invitations before take-off to transport, BC-services and guides on the mountain.Asia MountainsSergei Dudashvili (director)1, Lineinaja Str., 720021, Bishkek, KyrgyzstanTel. : +7 (499) 504 98 99 The last couple of years it has had even more visitors than its Kyrgyz neighbour, but since the requirement of peak fees were dropped in Kyrgyzstan and Muztagh Ata for some seasons was under control of an investment company (which charged high fees) Pik Lenin is now back in first place as the most popular 7000m mountain.Difficulty. "The ascent of Lenin peak along the Western ridge is not technically difficult. After reading this story, be sure to check out the other tale of tragedy of Lenin Peak in 1974 by clicking here. If going with the local nomads; always ask if you have to pay for the ride! easily accessible The border pass (Kyzyl Art) takes you down to the Alau Valley and Pik Lenin BC is less than an hour away. The rest of the way to the lowlands and Jalalabad is an easy ride on many dozens of switchbacks. The highest temperature and best snow conditions is from early July to mid August. Ak-Baytal at 4655m give you great views of lots of high surrounding peaks.You'll pass the deep blue Kara Kul Lake and this is the place from where you get your first glimpses of the Pik Lenin Massif. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. The problem in this case is; it has gotten many new names.Some says Peak Kaufman is the new official name. On the other hand, the forecast is good to have as base information and for planning for days ahead. The road is going through a sensitive military zone on the Chinese side and special transport has to be arranged. The Central Asia Travel I applied in the Ankara embassy, Turkey. Lenin Peak – Via the Razdelnaya Route. The climb is very much a non-technical… Be sure it's written Gorno Badakhshan A. O. on it. View Pik Lenin Image Gallery - 196 Images. google_color_link = "0000FF"; The inaugural expedition will take place in August 2022 and is reserved for alumnae of other AWExpeditions climbs. Personally I would bring a 30m, 6-7mm or something like that. Count on 6-8 hours travel(230km) in between Osh and BC.Flying to Central AsiaThe cheapest alternative is usually Pulkovo Airlines, which serves Bishkek, Almaty, Tashkent, Dushanbe and Samarkand. Green light filtered through the roof of the tent and I lay in my sleeping bag, thinking I’m … Furthermore they offer flghts between Bishkek and Osh. Cross a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. There are camps higher up in the valley on the so called Onion Field at 3800m. The only noise is the tumble of melted glacier water, interupted… We are excited to add 23,406ft Pik Lenin in Kyrgyzstan to our list of climbing destinations. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. google_ad_channel =""; The ascent route does not present particular technical difficulties, while the descent from the 7134 m. summit would excite fans of most extreme … Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. If you’d like to know more or request to join the team as a non-alumna, please get in touch. Thank you. Pik Lenin in the center of the picture. Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved.Regarding agencies - I used Ak-Sai in August 2014 - sometimes difficult to communicate in English in camps but otherwise good service".Hautecima adds (July 2015)"Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com) offer flights from Istanbul(Sabiha Gökcen), Dushanbe, Delhi and several Russian airports to Osh.Furthermore they offer flghts between Bishkek and Osh.Their fares are mostly very interesting." the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Great to have on the lower reaches, but remember the accident frequency on the mountains have gone up a lot with the use of sticks.